Mulch serves as nature’s insulating blanket. Mulch can improve soil aeration, structure and drainage over time as they decompose. “Mulching lowers maintenance needs and can reduce the likelihood of damage from ‘weed whackers,’ or the dreaded ‘lawn mower-itis’ when equipment gets too close. Mulch can give planting beds a uniform, well-cared for look.
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Here are 4 of the biggest reasons why you should mulch your beds:
1. Mulch insulates plant roots and steadies temperature changes. A layer of mulch will act as insulation during fluctuating temperatures. Bare soil will absorb heat more readily than mulch-covered soil. Although warm soil aids in plant growth, maintaining an even temperature is more beneficial. In times of cold weather, mulch will act as a protective barrier keeping the soil temperature from dropping too drastically.
2. Mulch affects moisture content of the soil. Moisture evaporates more easily from bare soil than from mulch-covered soil.
3. Mulch acts as erosion control. Bare soil washes away more easily if there is no barrier to keep it in place. A layer of mulch will prevent soil displacement.
4. Mulch adds nutrients to your soil. Mulch breaks down naturally adding nutrients to your soil for healthier plant life. TIP: Avoid using fresh wood chips as the early decomposition stages actually pull nutrients out of soil and are not as beneficial as a properly aged mulch
Here is some background on why woodchips (mulch) are worth every cent that you pay for them.
3. Slugs & snails hate wood chips (put a layer down for your nursery)
4. Mulching with woodchips gives excellent water retention.
5. Woodchips are a herbicide with 100% weed control – it even kills Kikuyu grass if piled deep enough.
6. The going rate for compost is R350/cube, and purchased compost will continue to decompose so you’ll end up with less.
7. The big chips and sticks are great for windy areas, steep slopes or on top of mounds of soil.
8. Sift a few cubes and use the small chips for microgreens and to top off my nursery bags.
9. Woodchips are magic when top dressing on sandy soils. They never go anaerobic.
10. The least desirable woodchips are from big logs. Smaller diameter branches have a higher percentage of lignans which create a better quality soil. It gives it that mucky, clay-like feel.
11. Short of manure (full of nitrogen) or Worm Castings, woodchip mulch is the absolute best thing for your soil.
12. All factors considered, woodchips are the cheapest source of nutrients.
13. Pile +/-20cm deep on pathways and +/- 2cm on garden beds. You end up with a sunken bed which helps hold water when watering with buckets or hose.
14. Small seeds can be broadcast directly into a thin layer of woodchips.
15. If planting in rows, part of the woodchips plant and recover.
16. TRY NOT TO MIX WOODCHIPS WITH SOIL – otherwise you’ll get nitrogen lockup (yellow leaves).
Woodchip/Mulch Volcano :
Evaporation is reduced, and the need for watering can be minimised. It also helps control weeds. A mulch layer will suppress weeds from germinating at the soil line. Remember lawn mower clippings blown onto mulch and animals may bring in weed seeds that may germinate on top of the mulch.
1. It is suggested to mulch around each tree with about ½ cube of woodchips. In wet climates, it may cause problems, but this method is perfect for dry to semi-dry climates.
2. The numerous benefits far outweigh any problems caused by woodchip volcanoes. Trees can be kept alive with close to ZERO WATER.
3. The woodchips kill the grass around the trees so it can be pushed out to make a basin and plant under each tree.
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